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On the gradual reflection of weakly nonlinear Stokes waves in regions with varying topography

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 April 2006

James T. Kirby
Affiliation:
Coastal & Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611

Abstract

Coupled equations governing the forward- and back-scattered components of a linear wave propagating in a region with varying depth may be derived from a second-order wave equation for linear wave motion. In this paper previous studies are extended to the case of weakly nonlinear Stokes waves coupled at third order in wave amplitude, using a Lagrangian formulation for irrotationaj motions. Comparison with previous computational and experimental results are made.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1986 Cambridge University Press

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